Tag: spain
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Spanish Fly
I love Spain. It’s the country I’ve been in the most outside of the US. I’ve walked across it. I love that it’s Western Europe, but still a little feral. I love that I kinda understand the language, and the body language. I love that I can shop in a local grocery store and know…
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The photography project I was a part of during my Camino is now exhibiting in Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Looks like I’m not one of the portraits they show, but many of the peregrinos I walked with are — ❤️ seeing their struggles & faces again! I guess I did my own version of…
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One of the cool things that happened on my Camino is that I was lucky enough to begin when the photographer Javier Iglesias Ramos was starting a new project. He calls it “IN ITINERE”, and it consists of taking a picture of each peregrino that arrived on their first day in Roncesvalles, and then another…
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A conversation I know I’m going to have many, many times when I get back to the States: Someone: How was the Camino de Santiago‽ Tim: I think it was the most extraordinary thing I’ve ever been a part of S: Whoa! How come? T: Well, umm, because, errr, ummm…I don’t know exactly S: Come…
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One of the rituals of the Camino is to get an ink stamp in your peregrino credential book at every albergue you stay at. Folks also get them at cathedrals, restaurants, and other sites along the walk. The purpose is to prove that you’ve indeed walked the camino, so you can get (for €3) your…
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I’m having a hard time wrapping up posting about the Camino. It then occurred to me…I haven’t posted a toilet in so long! Why do they have lids? Is it protocol to put them down when you’re finished?
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The symbol of the Camino is the scallop shell. It started back in the day as a way for pilgrims to prove they made it to Santiago (which isn’t on the ocean, but whatever). It’s also a nice symbol to show that all Caminos (there are lots in Spain, and many throughout Europe) lead to…
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Camino Stops
Timo’s Camino de Santiago via Camino Frances: Day 1 (7-Mar-2023): Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France → Roncesvalles, Spain (25km) Day 2: Roncesvalles → Urdaniz (24km) Day 3: Urdaniz → Pamplona (16km) Day 4: Pamplona → Puente la Reina (24km) Day 5: Puente la Reina → Estella (21km) Day 6: Estella → Torres del Rio (27km) Day 7: Torres…
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And then I was done. After an easy 30km trek from Muxia, I arrived at the 0.00 marker in Finisterre/Fisterre, “end of the earth”. It felt like the end, and I was glad I was done. Arriving in Santiago was emotional (still need to write about that — it’s hard); arriving in Muxia felt great;…
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Muxia is a stunning little town with turquoise ocean, and booming waves, and giant rocks, and decrepit walls, and a spare-looking cathedral built right into it all: It’s got a 0.00 marker to denote that it’s the end: And it was the place that those of us who walked to the ocean (🇦🇷 🇮🇹 🇩🇪…
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After reaching Santiago, a common extension is to then walk another 3-4 days to to the ocean. So after a few rest days in Santiago, I packed my bag again & got walking. The trail was as Galician beautiful as ever, but first seeing the ocean, after having just walked across the country to get…
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Long-term travel is a bubble, the Camino even more so. Having to do real-life stuff like taxes is thus an extra hard burst (especially when you haven’t had any income in four months…). But my room in Santiago, though it didn’t come with a bathroom, did come with a desk & a magnificent view of…
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* Day 1: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, France → Roncesvalles, Spain (25km) * Day 2: Roncesvalles → Urdaniz (24km) * Day 3: Urdaniz → Pamplona (16km) * Day 4: Pamplona → Puente la Reina (24km) * Day 5: Puente la Reina → Estella (21km) * Day 6: Estella → Torres del Rio (27km) * Day 7: Torres del…
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Being in Santiago, a cathedral city, on Easter was pretty great. It’s not my thing, but even I was awed by the spectacle and the processions throughout the day Roman legionnaires leading: Masses of peeps carrying the holy ones: All congregating at the ancient churches throughout the city: I don’t believe, but I know a…
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32 days, 779km → I arrived in Santiago de Compostela
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One tactic to try and avoid the Easter week crowds was to get out on the Camino before the sun rose. I disliked walking in the dark — you miss all the beauty you’re walking through. But the reward was a moonlit sky A beautiful sunrise And no crowds, right?
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The Camino started getting very, very crowded after Sarria in Galicia. It was Holy Week, and Spaniards get the week off, so they showed up in droves for the nice, easy 110km/5-day Camino Frances finale into Santiago. So normally Jesper🇸🇪, Lucia🇮🇹, Vanni🇮🇹, and I🇺🇸 would have nobody behind us in a pic like this, but…
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You’re outside all the time on the Camino, but you really don’t see much wildlife. I think the only animals I’ve seen are farm ones, and that’s not even every day. When I do see them, however, I’m continually surprised that they speak Spanish (and I don’t). If you say “hey” or “yo” or “hi”…
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It took me awhile to figure out my perfect order (and how to say it), but it’s pretty much now the first thing I say every morning at the magical, ubiquitous Spanish cafe/bars: “Cafe Americano, doble, grande, por favor”. They sometimes ask me something in Spanish after I order, and I never have any idea…
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We’re always walking west, but early in the morning you always had to turn around
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We peregrinos all leave the Albergues at different times in the morning. Sometimes you walk alone; sometimes you walk with people you know; sometimes you walk with new people. But we’re all following roughly the same schedule, and stopping in the same towns, so we see & hang out with the same folks all the…
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The terrain & scenery changes every day on the Camino, but the change was specially dramatic after climbing and crossing into Galicia It becomes lush & green, filled with rock-wall lined paths Absurdly beautiful at times
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Week four on the Camino. We’ll be wrapping things up soon 😔
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It’s not only humans on the Camino
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Sometimes the terrain we walk through seems fake, like it’s a perfectly staged set. I think I actually said those exact words to a fellow peregrino when I took this pic.
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The terrain gets hilly, and towns get much more rustic on the western edge of Castilla y Leon. Things are still beautiful, in a small-town Spain way, though. Until you look closer, revealing a potentially sinister undercurrent:
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Something you see all the time throughout Spain, and on the Camino, are giant stork nests atop all the cathedrals. They very visible in this pic because the building wasn’t that tall (places get smaller & poorer West of Burgos).
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Walking west out of Burgos takes you into the flatness of Castilla y León, where you could sometimes see your entire days walk ahead of you
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Week three on the Camino. All weeks kinda look the same 📈
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Walking the Camino, and Spain in general, is really cheap: • €0 = walking the Camino • €3 = getting peregrino credentials that enable you to stay in peregrino Albergues • €7-15 = bed for the night in an Albergue dorm room • €30-35 = private room in peregrino Hostal (totally needed after about a…
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Sometimes we walk on roads. Sometimes we walk on dirt roads. Sometimes there’s a beautiful old village in the distance. Sometimes there are snow-capped mountains in the far distance. Sometimes you can see all of that in one picture.
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One of the stories you heard a lot in the early Camino was that there was a winery on the trail that had a fountain of free red wine. It seemed mythical. It also turned out to be true, mostly. There is indeed a free tap of wine at this winery, but it’s only open…
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I’m not sure I’ve ever eaten as much bread in my life as I have here in Spain. It’s served with every meal, and as a hungry peregrino I always want to empty the basket. My favorite are the bocadillos, $2-3 sandwiches filled with sparse amounts of ham, sausage, cheese, or, ideally, tortilla de potato.…
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I know a common theme is me complaining about pictures, but it’s so hard. Ex: All these pics were taken within a few hours of each other. Which is best? I’ll never know.
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Week two on the Camino
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We peregrinos, pilgrims, normally stay in Albergues while on the Camino. They’re hostels specifically built and/or run for us, and are much cheaper than normal places. The cheapest are the ones run by the village/town/city, normally €8-12 for a bed in a dorm. Yep, that’s cheap, but the real cost is the quality of life…
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I’m taking too many pictures. I’m glad I am, but it makes it so hard at the end of each day to decide which ones to post. It makes it even harder that the iPhone takes such stunning photos, even in the evening. In support of this I present this picture, flippantly taken on the…
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The ramen of Spain is tortilla de patata, and I’ve been eating it pretty much every day. It pairs especially well with $2 beers.
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It turns out that northern Spain also has lots of cherry blossoms. And they were in full bloom in the morning golden hour leaving Torres del Rio. It took me hours to choose just this one photo.
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Dad asked me today if I was hiking with people, and to take pictures of people. Fair asks, and I can see why you’d think people aren’t a part of the Camino – I take about 1000 pics of the amazing scenery for every 1 of people. People are actually one of the best things…
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First seven days on the Camino. Wow. Amazing that 16 miles is the “shortest” day. And that big number on top is from today, so this next seven is looking like more of the same.
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I’m really struggling to figure out a good way to capture the scenery & experience of the Camino without just posting a bazillion pics, none of which seem to capture it. It’s just so amazing, and breathtaking, and varied, yet consistent. This pic is as good as any to try to summarize in one image:…
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It’s not only humans on the Camino
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The best way to guarantee yourself a good time in the evening (and some needed English conversations) when in any city in any country is to head to an Irish pub. When you do you’ll be rewarded by getting to hang out with bartender gems like this fella at Cerveceria Baztán in Pamplona: Please note…
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Camino de Santiago Day 1: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port → Roncesvalle • 25 km • 42k steps • 6.5 hours After taking the first step and passing through the final arch in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, you have to make a big choice whether to go left or right at this intersection: Alas, since it’s winter, the left route, which goes…

